Hermès Leather Ultimate Guide | Hermès Leathers & Skins Type

July 31, 2025

When you think of the world of ultra-luxury handbags, no name rings better than Hermès. It is a name that conjures up timelessness and elegance, excellent craftsmanship, and an air of exclusivity in the fashion world. It is no wonder that Hermès bags have become synonymous with high-end sophistication. But, perhaps the most interesting part behind the prestige of Hermès bags are the leathers and exotic skins that create its every bag. From the standard leathers like Togo, Clemence, to rare leathers such as Porosus Crocodile and Ostrich skin, this Ultimate Hermes Leather Guide will accompany you through all the major leather and skin types from Hermès, their features, care instructions, and how to find the right leather for your lifestyle.

Introduction to Hermès Leathers and Skins

Hermès has a large assortment of materials for their handbags, shoes, belts, and small leather goods. Each leather is selected and treated with traditional artisan techniques in France at Hermès’ ateliers. Leather determines more than appearance; the material will also determine the bag’s weight, durability, softness, structure, and even price!

There are two main categories where Hermès leathers fit into:

• Standard Leathers: Palettes of calf, cow, and goat.
• Exotic Skins: Including crocodile, alligator, ostrich, and lizard.

What makes Hermès so special is the house’s commitment to excellence. Every skin is carefully selected, with artisans trained for years to work with specific materials. Each skin is meticulously selected, as the artisans have been trained and studied for years to work with specific leathers. In some cases, it can take upwards of 15 hours of handwork to construct one Hermès bag. This diligence means that the leather must be perfect, so Hermès only works with the very finest sliver of hides available worldwide.

Let’s go step by step through each type of Hermès leather and skin.

Hermès Standard Leathers

These leathers are the most frequently utilized and made within the Birkin, Kelly, Constance, and other Hermès bags since they can offer a variety of finishes, ranging from flat to shiny and firm to slouchy, and each leather has its own character, job, and style.

1. Togo Leather

Togo is the most sought after leather for Hermès bags, especially the Birkin. Constructed from calfskin it is well-liked for being fine-grained and pebbled, which translates to a subtle softness/luxury. Togo is typically praised for being fairly lightweight, which makes it a great option for larger bag sizes.

It has a slight shine and keeps shape well, even though it is soft and supple to the touch. And because of its durability, Togo is very scratch resistant and is often used as a preference for bags used every day. Over time, Togo leather will develop a lovely patina to complement its already unique characteristics and charm. The grain also helps disguise marks and scratches, perfect for long-term usage.

Togo is popular with collectors because it has versatility. Whatever color it is, be it bold or classic, Togo’s effortless chic brings the Birkin and Kelly design to life.

2. Clemence Leather

Clemence is another popular leather, made out of bull calf leather. It is a little heavier and softer than Togo, thus giving the bags a more relaxed and slouchy appearance. The grain on Clemence is wider and flatter; it has a more casual look.

Clemence is known for its matte finish and supple hand-feel. While it is elegant, because of the natural relaxed structure, larger bags may sag more. A bag insert can help maintain a structure and develop some type of shape. Clemence ages beautifully, developing a soft sheen and will also develop a personalized texture from use.

Often, Clemence is often selected by people who care less about the aesthetic potential of a lightweight leather, as it leans towards a more relaxed aesthetic. It is often seen in larger bags and travel totes, the Evelyne and Garden Party.

3. Epsom Leather

Epsom is a pressed leather, meaning the grain is embossed artificially. Even though it is synthetic, it has a clean, fine, and consistent texture, is very lightweight and is scratch-resistant.  It also keeps its shape very well which makes it more suitable for structured bags, like the Kelly Sellier and the Constance.

Its resistance to wear and moisture makes Epsom preferred by those who wish for more luxurious options that require less maintenance. Epsom takes color very well and provides saturated, vibrant colors making it an often choice for the special seasonal colors and limited editions.

Many collectors gravitate to Epsom when searching for a lightweight bag with a polished, elegant silhouette.

4. Swift Leather

Swift leather is soft, smooth, and has almost a buttery touch. It is fine grain and has a slight sheen that comes to life with color that jumps off the leather making it one of the best leathers for bright and pastel colorways. However, it too is more delicate and can scratch easily, though just like Epsom, most usable, superficial scratches tend to buff out.

Swift leather has a more relaxed look, so it’s not often used for a larger, more structured bag, but rather in smaller bags and SLGs (small leather goods). It is more suitable for someone that prefers a refined, elegant look.

Swift leather has a subtle luminosity that enhances every shade, making it the go-to for collectors who adore Hermès’ seasonal color palette.

5. Box Calf Leather

Box Calf is one of the oldest and most traditional leathers made by Hermès. It has a smooth, glossy finish with very little, if any, visible grain. It is often used in vintage Kelly bags and is admired for its elegant, formal appearance. However, Box Calf is very susceptible to scratches and watermarks, which can be very difficult to buff out. With care, it ages beautifully and develops a rich patina that enhances its vintage look.

Due to its formality and tradition, Box Calf is also very popular. True vintage Hermès collectors seem to be partial to Box Calf specifically. Box Calf leather can be purchased in classic colors, including Noir, Rouge H, and Gold.

6. Chevre Leather (Mysore & Coromandel)

Chevre is made from goat leather. Its most appealing features are its weight, durability and low susceptibility to scratches. Chevre comes in two types, Mysore and Coromandel. Mysore has a fine grain with a subtle sheen, while the Coromandel is usually more textured with a sheen.

Chevre is usually used in smaller bags, wallets, and agenda covers. The durability and slightly water resistant properties of Chevre leather makes it an excellent leather choice for handbags which require daily travel.

Due to the extremely light nature of the Chevre leather, it is also the leather of choice for mini bags, including but not limited to the Kelly 20 and Constance 18 sizes. Chevre is also not prone to deformation, making it a strong but chic choice.

7. Barenia Leather

Barenia is a smooth leather, vegetable-tanned, and is found in Hermès equestrian products. It’s an organic leather with a natural oily finish that darkens over time — developing rich, caramel leather patina.

Because Barenia is untanned, it is more susceptible for scratches and watermarks – however, scratches and watermarks only become part of the leather’s character. Barenia is rare and found in limited edition bags and straps.

Barenia is loved for its organic, lived-in charm; it’s typically produced in neutral tones that will naturally patina, like Fauve and Natural.

Hermès Exotic Skins

Hermès exotic bags, on the other hand, are much more exclusive, and limited in their availability to a brand of clientele. The exotic leather bag is made in very limited numbers, and may require special order from their boutique. Each exotic leather skin is eco-farmed and follows strict guidelines in handling from farm to factory, so that they are meeting both luxury and eco-friendly regulations at the level they are producing their products.  

Crocodile – Porosus & Niloticus

Porosus crocodile leather is the finest and most expensive leather used at Hermès. Porosus leather is sourced from Australia’s crocodile farms. They follow strict guidelines and treatment processes of sustainably sourced high-quality leathers with high standards for luxury, While porosus fashions a small scale symmetry pattern and glossy finish, from care of high polishing, Niloticus is larger scales and slightly more of a matte texture from its finish.  

Bags created in Porosus will have a “^” symbol where the logo is stamped, and Niloticus will have “••” around the same place as the logo, along with its year stamp.

These skins are strictly allocated for flagship boutiques and VIP clients. They are the crown jewels of Hermès’ leather collection and can cost two to three times that of the standard leather varieties.

Alligator Mississippiensis

Alligator is found across the southeastern United States and is primarily used for smaller items. It has a larger and more irregular scale pattern than crocodile and is marked with a square marker (“□”).

This skin is elegant and softer than crocodile but still a luxurious leather. It has a glossy finish, high-shine and is often used for special edition pieces. The puffs of texture that collectors love and the perfume of subtle shine enhance the look of its depth.

Ostrich Leather

Ostrich leather is light, durable, and its pattern is identifiable by the raised quill follicles on the surface level. Its unusual texture is extremely visually appealing (the quills) and ostrich is known for absorbing dyes incredibly well (although intensity may depend on the natural color, but generally richer colors).

Ostrich leather is also water resistant, making it a viable option for everyday wear as its look is unique. Ostrich leather is less formal than crocodile leather, however is equally unique with its texture. It has become more sought-after and scrutinized in recent years as it wears better than other leathers.

Hermès generally uses ostrich leather in bright varieties including Bougainvillea and Blue Jean, as the widened sheen at natural pores enhance the saturation of color.

Lizard (Varanus Niloticus)

The skin of a lizard is delicate and very luxurious and is most often found in small bags, such as the Mini Kelly and/or Constance. The texture is a well-defined scale pattern with a high shine that gives lizard its visual appeal but also makes it less durable.

Bags featuring lizard skin will be stamped with a dash (“-“).  They are also prone to heat, dryness etc. and require special maintenance usually only suited for evenings or occasions.

Lizard is considered an ultra-limited or discontinued color for collectors. Popular choices are black and in metallics.

Special Edition & Rare Leathers

Hermès also uses very rare and or limited leathers that typically come with limited numbers or seasonality. For example:

• Doblis Suede: A high-quality, luxury suede that is generally considered vintage.
• Vache Hunter: A canvas bag, mixed smooth and raw.
• Chevre Mysore: A goat hide used for small leather goods (SLG), fine weight with the durability of goat.
• Vache Liegee: Very rigid and used mostly for structured bags, like Kelly Sellier.

Comparing Hermès Leathers: At a Glance

As you can see Hermès has a full range of leathers that infuses modern luxury with a retro revival. Depending on aesthetic and functionality, for a structured design that is polished, long-lasting, and scratched resistant, you will want to use Epsom, if you want something completely soft. For a slouchy style with a natural grain, Clemence or Togo leathers will do better for you. Those with a refined taste for smooth, classic textures and softness will consider Swift or Box Calf leathers. As well, Barenia leather offers a softness and warmth that gives a heritage style that ages beautifully. For collectors who want to ensure investment quality, Porosus or Niloticus Crocodile skin offers an unparalleled rarity and prestige that makes the bag a collectible.

Choosing the Right Hermès Leather for You

This is how to decide which Hermès leather or skin suits your lifestyle and needs:

• Everyday Use: Togo, Clemence, or Epsom leathers are great options. They are durable and reliable for the daily wear of a bag.
• Lightweight Style: Epsom and Chevre leathers are extremely lightweight, meaning they are ideal for travel or day-to-day carrying.
• Luxury Exotic skins: crocodile, ostrich, and lizard.
• Structure: Epsom, Box Calf, and Porosus leathers can add precise structure to your bag.
• Slouchy Style: Clemence and Swift leathers provide a relaxed, slouchy style.
• For Collectors: Porosus Crocodile and vintage Box Calf are exceptionally collectible, sought after, and monitored for resale value.

Top Leather Products by Hermès

1. Hermès Birkin Bag

In many circles, perhaps the most famous leather product in the world is the Hermès Birkin Bag, a universal emblem of luxury, exclusivity and wealth. Commonly made of various leathers, including Togo, Clemence and Epsom and even exotic skins, such as Porosus Crocodile, the Birkin covers the finest craftsmanship and timeless design. The Birkin is named after actress Jane Birkin, and has a waiting list of years, a resale value that can exceed retail, and overall has a dramatic impact on fashion. Each Birkin is hand stitched using saddler’s stitch, takes over 20 hours and is often begun and completed by the same artisan, contributing to Hermès outstanding leather craftsmanship.

2. Hermès Kelly Bag

Another piece of artwork from the house of Hermès, the Kelly Bag, has some confusion with its name. Previously known as the Sac à dépêches of the 1930s, it was later re-named after Princess Grace Kelly, who was photographed with the handbag a lot. Although designed similarly to the Birkin bag, the Kelly Bag has more structure, a single top handle and optional shoulder strap, therefore giving a more formal look to your attire. The Kelly bag also offers multiple leathers, including Box Calf, Togo, Epsom, and Chevre, and features details to the same standards and craftsmanship as every Hermès purse. One Kelly pad takes over about 20 hours to meticulously put together, making it a fashionable bag and work of art at the same time.

3. Hermès Constance Bag

Built in a smaller, compact form than the Birkin and the Kelly, the Constance bag is an instant favorite of younger Hermès collectors and celebrities alike. Featuring a signature “H” clasp, the Constance exudes sleek, modern sophistication as it is primarily constructed from Box Calf, Evercolor, Swift, or Epsom leather creating a refined finish with structured style. While the Constance bag has a minimal, clean design, it is one of the more complex Hermès bags to produce due to the precision required for the curved shape and clasp alignment.

4. Hermès Evelyne Bag

The Evelyne is the ultimate bag in functional luxury. Originally designed as a man bag, the Evelyne features a large shoulder strap for hands-free wear, and the bag has a perforated “H” logo. The Evelyne is representative of the ultimate in casual luxury, and is typically made from Clemence or Maurice Leather creating a soft, relaxed shape. The Evelyne is also unisex casual luxury in the typical colourways that Hermès collectors recognize. The Evelyne bag is lightweight, durable and perfect for everyday use, making it one of the most accessible and useful of the Hermès collection of leather bags.

5. Hermès Garden Party Tote

The Garden Party Tote is a large capacity, functional bag. The Garden Party Tote is versatile for everyday use. The Garden Party Tote is typically made of Negonda leather or Country leather, allowing a casual but elegant product with minimal branding. The open-top structure with snap closures and reinforced corners creating a durable and fashion statement piece for a mid-range luxury bag. The Garden Party is a favorite among Hermès enthusiasts who value practicality without compromising on luxury.

6. Hermès Oran Sandals

“H” cut-out strap and made of calf leather, the Hermès Oran sandals are among the brand’s diverse leather footwear styles. They are part of every luxury wardrobe and comes in different colors and leathers, even seasonal ones and exotic skins. The Oran sandals are bestsellers because the minimalistic design coupled with the comfort of wearing them makes them easy to wear, especially in warmer seasons. 

7. Hermès Dogon Wallet

The Hermès dogon wallet is an example of combination of simple luxury and skillful craftsmanship, with Swift, Epsom and Togo leathers comprising the rest of the wallets. It consists of a leathery flap containing a removable change pouch and is secured with a Clou de Selle iconic clasp. It is elegant, very roomy thus enabling one to carry coins, bills, credit cards, and even a lot of coins, which makes it very useful. The Dogon is famous to people who are in love with the brand Hermès and its subtle luxury.

8. Hermès H Belt

In luxury fashion, the Hermès “H” belt is well-known as a status symbol. The belt is constructed of a boldly engraved “H” buckle and a leather strap, often made of Box Calf or Togo, which is reversible. This enables wearers to switch between colors and textures easily. For both men and women, Hermès effortlessly provides a variety of widths and finishes to complement both formal and casual outfits. With timeless appeal, it remains one of their top selling leather accessories.

9. Hermès Collier de Chien (CDC) Bracelet

The Collier de Chien bracelet, once designed for dogs, evolved into a haute statement piece. Molded in Box Calf, Swift, or exotic leathers, the metal studs and ring details give a bold, edgy attitude to this bracelet. However, despite its edginess, it is a very feminine piece that pairs well with streetwear or couture labels, signifying how Hermès takes things initially utilitarian and converts them into high fashion.

10. Hermès Leather Agendas and Notebook Covers

While not as much of a focus as bags or accessories, Hermès leather stationery items hold a place near the hearts of brand critics. The Ulysse notebook cover and Vision agenda come in soft leathers such as Togo, Swift, and Epsom, with a rainbow spectrum of vibrant colors. These leather goods maintain the same care and refinement attitude found in the bigger Hermès pieces and are great for gifting or a personal treat.

How to Authenticate Hermès Leathers

Every Hermès bag makes subtle references to leather type or origins. Symbols near the logo stamp inside the bag identify the exotic skin used (•, ^, -, etc.). Furthermore, Hermès leather artisans include a code and stamp showing the year and workshop, which is an important aspect of the authentication procedure.

Caring for Your Hermès Leather

General Leather Care Tips:

• Storage: Keep bags in dust bags, and stuffed if need be, to retain shape.
• Humidity: Avoid high humidity or plastic for storage.
• Handling: Ensure hands remain clean; some leathers can get stained with oil.
• Repairs: Maintenance should be carried out only by Hermès workshops or other verified luxury care specialists.
  

Special Tips for Exotic Skins:

• Avoid rain, direct sunlight, and over-handling.
• Keep conditioners to an occasional affair, with light rubs from a soft cloth.
• Use just the handles—oil from your palms can subtly alter color.

Final Thoughts

Hermès leathers are not just materials—they represent the brand’s legacy for excellence, artistry, and innovation. Every variation of leather has its own tale, look, and feel that caters to different personalities and lifestyles. Knowing the leather will make you realize what you buy, especially whether it is meant to be a starting piece in your Hermès collection with a very usable Togo Birkin or an exotic Porosus Kelly with a bit of an investment in it.

From durable everyday pieces to rarities for the discerning collector, the world of Hermès has something for every connoisseur. Let this guide be the heralding voice in the lux world of Hermès leather goods—because real luxury lies in the detail.